Ball joints are a key part of your vehicle’s suspension system. They connect the control arms to the steering knuckles and act as pivot points, helping your wheels move up and down while also steering left and right. When they wear out, it can lead to serious handling issues or even dangerous driving conditions. In this guide, we’ll explain what ball joints are, how they work, signs of failure, and how you can replace them yourself safely and correctly.
Ball joints are spherical bearings that connect the control arms to the steering knuckles. They allow for smooth movement in multiple directions while keeping your wheels aligned. Depending on your vehicle type, you might have upper ball joints, lower ball joints, or both.
Upper ball joints are usually found in vehicles with double-wishbone suspension systems (common in trucks and SUVs). They help with suspension alignment and vertical movement.
Lower ball joints are more common across different vehicle types and carry more weight. They play a crucial role in steering and supporting the vehicle's load.
Some ball joints are built into the control arm and cannot be replaced separately, while others are bolted, pressed, or riveted on. Most front-wheel-drive cars have two lower ball joints, while rear-wheel-drive and larger vehicles may have both upper and lower ball joints on each side.
Ball joints naturally wear out over time due to constant motion and exposure to road debris. Here are some common symptoms of failing ball joints:
Clunking or popping noises when going over bumps
Loose or wandering steering
Uneven tire wear
Vibration in the front end
Visible movement in the joint when checked manually
In severe cases, the ball joint can separate completely from the socket, causing the wheel to detach from the control arm—a dangerous and costly failure.
If you suspect worn ball joints, here’s a simple way to check them at home:
Jack up the car safely and support it with jack stands.
Leave the wheels on and squat beside the tire.
Grab the tire at the 5 and 8 o’clock positions and lift up and out.
If you feel any movement or hear knocking, have someone repeat the motion while you watch the joint. If the ball joint moves, it needs replacing.
You can also use a pry bar between the steering knuckle and control arm to detect play.
If the ball joint is non-serviceable, you’ll need to replace the entire control arm.
Yes, but the difficulty depends on your vehicle and experience. Some ball joints are straightforward bolt-on parts, while others are pressed or riveted in and require special tools.
For DIY ball joint replacement, you’ll typically need:
A ball joint press or pickle fork
Wrenches and socket set
Torque wrench
Floor jack and jack stands
Snap ring pliers
Hammer or mallet
Penetrating fluid
Grease gun
Many tools are available for free through programs like AutoZone’s Loan-A-Tool service.
Engage the parking brake. Jack up the vehicle and support it securely with jack stands. Remove the wheel to access the suspension.
Take off the brake caliper and rotor. In some vehicles, you may also need to remove sway bar links or other suspension components that block access.
Use a ball joint fork to separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. This may require significant force and a heavy-duty hammer. Remove any retaining clips or snap rings.
If it’s pressed in, use a ball joint press to push it out. If it’s bolted on, unbolt it using a socket or wrench. For riveted joints, you’ll need to grind or cut the rivets off.
Use the ball joint press to insert the new joint. Pro tip: Store the new ball joint in the freezer overnight to slightly shrink it, making installation easier. For bolt-on types, tighten to the correct torque spec.
Reattach the steering knuckle and all components you removed. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle back to the ground.
Always refer to your vehicle’s service manual for the correct torque specifications and steps for your specific make and model.
The cost depends on whether you’re doing it yourself or hiring a mechanic:
DIY cost: $20–$100 per ball joint. You may spend an additional $75–$250 on tools, but many are available for free via tool loan programs.
Professional service: $350–$650 per side, including labor and parts. Labor is the biggest cost since the job takes 3–5 hours on average.
Note: If one ball joint is bad, it’s often wise to replace the others at the same time, especially on high-mileage vehicles.
Use safety glasses when using a press or hammer.
Pull tools toward you to avoid injury if they slip.
Always wear gloves for better grip and protection.
After replacing suspension parts, get a professional alignment to avoid tire wear and handling issues.
If the job looks too difficult, consult a trusted shop. Use AutoZone’s Preferred Shops list to find experts near you.
Q: What are the symptoms of a bad ball joint?
A: Clunking sounds, loose steering, uneven tire wear, and visible joint play.
Q: Can I replace ball joints at home?
A: Yes, if you have the right tools and experience. For complex jobs, a professional is recommended.
Q: How long does it take to replace a ball joint?
A: Around 1–2 hours per joint, or 3–5 hours per side.
Q: What tools do I need?
A: Ball joint press, wrenches, sockets, pry bar, jack stands, torque wrench, and safety gear.
Q: How often should I check my ball joints?
A: Inspect them every 12,000–15,000 miles or during routine maintenance.
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